QUAQUAVERSAL
For Spring/Summer 2016 Iris Van Herpen explores the powerful confluence of nature and
architecture. Inspired by the living tree bridges in India, the
designer executes a new approach to garment construction, mixing the
techniques of cutting, weaving, folding and growing into a process that
transcends the boundaries of traditional clothes-making.[...]
[...]
“The beautiful potential of plants and other organisms to form
living architecture inspired me to make a collection that is tangled
like a maze around the body. Inspiration came from the way plants and
their roots grow, and how roots have been used to grow living bridges in
the forests of India. This tradition of growing bridges inspired me to
re-envision my process of making a garment.”
Central to the show Gwendoline Christie lies in a deep-time dream,
wearing a circular dress, which is being woven upon her. The live
process blends different techniques - lazer cutting, hand weaving and
3-D printing into one dress, which spreads from the centre, quaquaversal
in its geometries.
Three ‘Beings’ move over the sleeping figure, their geological mineral
landscape magnetically grown by the artist Jolan van der Wiel, weaving
the dress in real time, interlacing an architectural mesh which rays out
around her.
“Van Herpen’s work reveals the secret structures of our existence
giving us a multidimensional experience of what it is to be alive, it is
an investigation into the past, present and future in all its primal
and mythological forms.”
Gwendoline Christie
In order to underscore the growth process inherent in living
architecture and the installation, variations of lace were used as the
key materials in the collection - a fine organic lace from Calais, a
nude, graphic maze-like lace, iridescent changeant silver lace, leather
lace embedded with Swarovski ceramic stones and glass-like transparent
lace with square gems. The collection is executed in minimal colors –
white, nude, grey, silver and black tones.
To complement the collection, the “airborne” shoes were developed in
collaboration with Finsk. Their ultra-thin platform creates an illusion
of the wearer being suspended above ground.
CREDIT LIST:
Press agent: Karla Otto |
Nicolas Delareu
Styling: Patti Wilson
Casting Director: Jess Hallett
Consultancy: Jerry Stafford
Make-up: M.A.C | Inge
Grognard
Hair: TIGI | Maria Kovacs, Marco Lafrate
Music & sounds: Salvador Breed
Runway music: Excerpt of
“Canto Ostinato Audio Visual” | Gwyneth Wentink, Wouter Snoei & Arnott
Hulskamp
Collaborating artists: Jolan van der Wiel, Marjan Colletti
Installation: Rex Lab |
University of Innsbruck for Experimental Archictecture
Pedja Gavrilovic, Pavlos
Fereos
Show: 6up event production |
Martin Cohen, Bruno Augusto Ramos
Showproduction: Bdifferent | Kim Vos, Diek Pothoven & Michelle den
Hollander
Shoes in collaboration with
Finsk London by Julia Finsk
Press release: Jerry
Stafford & Eugene Rabkin
Installation photography: Warren
Du Preez and Nick Thornton Jones
Frontstage Photography: Peter Stigter
Backstage Photography: Morgan O’Donovan
Video Registration: Fabrice Daville - Premices Films
Special Thanks to:
Gwendoline Christie
Swarovski
Ets Lucien Noyon Et Cie
Akadamie van Kunsten
Stefano Martinetto & Tomorrow team